Learn More 2016-11-16T15:45:25+00:00

GROUPSETS

Have you been in the saddle for a few years, or are you in the process of upgrading your frame? Are you switching from a mountain bike, and getting into a road bike? Are you ready for the challenge of a triathlon? If your answer was “yes” to any of those questions, then you’re probably looking at an upgrade in your group set. This upgrade is the biggest one you can make after your frame and wheels.

A groupset or gruppo (Italian) is a component manufacturer’s organized collection of mechanical parts. It generally refers to all of the components that make up a bicycle excluding the frame, forks, stem, wheels, tires, and rider contact points, such as the saddle and handlebars.

These parts typically include the following:

  • 2 gear levers / shifters and
  • 2 brake levers or
  • 2 integrated brake levers/shifters
  • 2 brakes, front and rear
  • 2 derailleurs front and rear
  • 1 bottom bracket
  • 1 crankset
  • 1 chain
  • 1 cogset, freewheel or cassette

With the following forming part of some groupsets:

  • 1 headset
  • 1 seatpost
  • 2 hubs, front and rear Pair of pedals

A modern road groupset is bought after-market (as an upgrade for an older bike, or for someone building their own bike), the customer can choose which parts they require, the price of the groupset is just the individual prices of the chosen parts added together.

The major groupset manufacturers are Campagnolo for road bicycle then Shimano and SRAM for both road and mountain bikes.

Manufacturers typically offer a range of several groupsets, each targeted at a different budget or use. For instance, Dura-Ace, Super Record and Red are the top-of-the-line road racing groupsets for Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM respectively while Sora, Veloce and Apex are their entry level road racing group sets, respectively.

CRANKS

If you’re looking for a high end pedal system, then Sammy’s is the place for you! Advancements in crank & pedal technology make upgrading a must as you approach road warrior or racer status. We have a wonderful selection in stock, which include cranks that measure WATTS!

PEDALS

Exposed Cleat Systems

Exposed Cleat Systems refer to cleats that are attached to the outside sole of the bike shoe. Almost all shoes designed for road biking have an exposed cleat system. This is so the entire sole of the shoe can be made from a very stiff material, such as carbon. The stiffer the sole of your shoe, the more stable the platform to transmit power. The downside of having a very stiff sole, and exposed cleat is that it is very difficult to walk in these type of cycling shoes. Some companies are now adding a rubber heal tip to the shoe, and offering rubber cleat covers that can be put over your cleats for those times that you need to get off your bike and walk.

Recessed Cleat Systems

Recessed Cleat Systems refer to cleats that are set into the sole of the shoe. They designed to let the cyclist walk comfortably in cycling shoes. Most shoes designed for “off-road” riding use a “recessed cleat system” because many off-road cyclists need to be able to walk their bikes for some distance over rugged terrain.
The most basic consideration when buying a cycling shoe and pedal system is the type of riding you expect to be doing. “Road” vs “Off-road”. Secondly, do you need to be able to walk comfortably in your cycling shoes?

Contact Area

The contact area of a pedal refers to the actual part of the pedal that is in contact with the shoe and cleat. A larger contact area increases foot stability, and reduces fatigue. The actual contact area is not always the same as the pedals platform dimensions. In order to make pedals lighter in weight, companies cut holes in the pedal platform. This makes pedals lighter, but it also reduces the area of contact between the pedal and a cyclists foot. Mountain bike pedals generally have a wider platform than road biking pedals so that the pedal can be used in technical situations without having to clip in.

Engagement

Clipless pedals can have “single”, “dual-sided” or even a “four-sided” engagement. If a pedal offers single sided engagement, then the cyclist will need to find the top of the pedal in order to clip in. A dual-sided engament allows the cyclist to clip into the top or bottom of the pedal. An “eggbeater” style of pedal allows you to clip in on four sides of the pedal. The type of engament will determine how quickly and easily a cyclist can clip-in to their pedals.

Engagement mechanisms for mountain bike pedals have the added consideration of how to displace mud and debris that can get caught in the pedals or cleats. If you are buying pedal systems for off-road riding, find out how the pedal system deals with this issue, or you will have to continually be cleaning your pedals and cleats in order to clip in to your pedal system.

Weight

The lighter the pedal and shoe, the less weight you carry up hills. The sole material and amount of tread used in a shoe can dramatically affect its weight. Road bike shoes are designed to be very light and aerodynamic, and in general weigh much less than the heavier rubber soled shoes designed for off-road riding.

Locking Mechanism and Tension adjustment

The locking mechanism on the shoe is what holds the shoe onto the pedal. You don’t want your foot releasing inadvertently. The tension adjustment on the locking mechanism lets you control how hard or easy it is to get in and out of the pedal.

Rotational Freedom – “Float”

During the pedal rotation, most cyclist knees track towards the outside or inside at the top of the pedal stroke ­ they do not stay in-line. This motion is often caused by a lack of alignment of the lower leg and foot. Aligning the foot and making it a stable structure on the pedal is the foundation for preventing knee injuries while cycling.

“Float” is defined as the degree of movement offered by the cleat within the pedal before release begins. A fixed-position cleat does not allow your foot to swivel, and can cause injury to your knees by forcing you into a pedal rotation that is not natural for your specific knee alignment. To prevent knee injury, Most clipless pedal systems have “float”. Float allows your foot to swivel a few degrees laterally to ensure that you don’t injure your knees. The amount of float can vary from 0 to 15 degrees. The greater the float, the more you will need to twist your foot to release your shoe from the pedal.

There are three variations of float found in pedals:

Free Float

Free float allows your body to decide what position is best.

Spring Recentered Float

Spring-recentered float features a spring that pushes your foot back to the manufacturer’s set “neutral position”. However, when your natural “neutral position” is different from the manufacturers “neutral position”, knee problems may result.

Float with Friction

Float with friction prevents rotational motion between the pedal and cleat. The cyclist is able to reposition the foot by moving it within the rotational range, but the foot does not move freely on its own.

Stack Height

Stack height is the vertical distance from the bottom of the foot to the center line of the pedal spindle. The closer your foot is to the pedal spindle, the more efficient your pedal stroke. The farther your foor is from the pedal spindle, the less stable your foot making the pedal want to flip over.

Corner Clearance

A pedal’s corner clearance is a function of the lean angle of a bike. The lean angle determines how far a bike can be leaned into a turn before the inside pedal strikes the road at the bottom of the pedal stroke. The higher the lean angle, the farther a rider can lean over and continue pedaling safely. The farther a rider can lean in a corner, the less he has to slow down. A variety of factors establish lean angle: bottom-bracket height, crank width, crank length, tire size and pedal profile. The pedal you select can make a difference in the lean angle, and greatly increases cornering speed and safety. Pedals with short spindles and very thin body profiles provide optimum corner clearance.

Finally, we will help you pair the cleats and shoes to you and your riding style to ensure a custom fit for miles of riding enjoyment.

SADDLES

If you are considering buying a bike for the first time, or getting ready to change into a different style of bike; well, it can seem as if your options are nearly endless. Here at Sammy’s will guide you through the process by helping you identify what type of seat best fits your riding style.

Your seat must fit your type of riding and your body. The faster you ride, the more likely it is you’ll want a narrow, racing-style seat. This is because, a fast-riding position on a bike shifts you forward placing more weight on the hands and feet and reducing a lot of the weight on the seat. Also, as you pedal more vigorously, you spin faster and you don’t want interference from the sides of the seat.

As you ride more casually, however, such as on a cruiser bike with wide backswept handlebars, most of your weight is planted directly on the seat. Plus you don’t pedal quickly at all. These factors make a wide, heavily padded saddle ideal to support your weight and provide cushioning.

Equally important, most manufacturers offer their popular seat models in both men’s and women’s versions and there are significant differences.

Because male and female pelvises differ (women’s are wider), it’s usually a good idea for men to start with men’s saddle models and women with women’s (though not always: women sometimes do fine on men’s seats). The men’s is a bit longer and narrower while the women’s is a bit shorter and wider.

Next, the seat must fit your particular anatomy. You can sometimes see how you fit a seat if you sit on it for a while then get off and immediately look closely at the back of the seat top. If a saddle is right for your body, its rear will support your bones.

Certain models incorporate a channel or groove centered down the length of the seat. Others use a hole or long slot in the front. Seats with channels and holes are often called Cutaway seats. Some seats feature soft foam or gel in the nose and softened bases beneath to reduce the stiffness. These are usually called Gel seats. The important thing to know is that if you find the seat’s nose a problem, there are models designed to remove the intrusion. Try a few until you find the model that works for you.

Here at Sammy’s we offer the full range of top brands. Better still is our guaranteed fit, because we fit the bike to you. Best of all our professional staff can custom build a bike around you from wheels & components to seats & pedals. At Sammy’s we can custom build a bike for you, and stay within a budget!

HANDLEBARS

Like most cycling components, the range of available handlebars has greatly increased during the past several years. The introduction of carbon fiber as a primary material in the construction of bike parts has contributed to a great deal of variety in the types of handlebars available. Of course, the focus on carbon fiber components has also caused prices to skyrocket. At Sammy’s we’ll cut through some of the marketing hype and help you decide which handlebars will best suit your needs.

So, which bars are for you? Most importantly, find bars you like that fit in your price range. Weight wise, the lightest aluminum bars are comparable to the lightest carbon bars. Price wise, aluminum will almost always win out. If you’ve experienced a particularly good fit with your ultra-ergo carbon job, then you’re probably carbon for life. If you’ve tried several pairs of aluminum bars but can’t quite get your position comfortable, a more ergonomically designed carbon bar may be the answer.

A quick glance over bikes ridden by the pros shows that they ride both carbon and aluminum. Powerful sprinter types tend to ride durable aluminum, while spindly climbers prefer the smoother feel of carbon.

As with any component, there is no one right answer and no holy grail handlebar will turn you into Miguel Indurain, or Lance
Armstrong. Nothing says sexy like glossy carbon parts, but races are won at the highest level with both materials.

WHEELS

So much research and development has gone into wheel manufacturing, that they’ve revolutionized cycling. In the world of cycling, wheel technology is light years ahead of where we were just a few years ago. The advent of light weight carbon fibers, ceramic hubs and low count aero-spokes make it possible to match wheels to your individual riding style and needs.

If you’re a mountain bike enthusiast who’s into trail riding, we have sturdy light weight wheels giving you faster acceleration & braking with greater feel & maneuver ability.

If you’re a road cyclist, then you have the flexibility to add deep dish wheels such you see on professional bikes, and a ceramic hub which just keep rolling. Ideal for taking on rolling hills, and long farm roads.

Best of all the variations of styles and brands make it possible to put you on the right wheels at the right price for your budget.

We’re happy to offer a full range of brands and types from Easton, Mavic, Cosmic, SRAM, Zipp, Azzurri and many more.

Our professional staff will be more than happy to help you shop for your new set of wheels.

Wheels 360

There are a wide variety of road bike wheels that are made for an equally wide variety of purposes, from user-friendliness to stability to performance. According to Trails.com, bike wheels are one of the most effective and simple upgrades a cyclist can make to her bike.

All-Purpose
These are the more traditional wheels that feature spokes and narrow rims. There are a variety of designs that are great for anything from leisure riding to training to racing, which includes sprinting and climbing

Aeros

This type of wheel is usually lightweight but the main benefit is the aerodynamics. Aeros feature a deep rim, which means it extends farther toward the axle, or skewer. These types of wheels are typically used in triathlons and time-trial racing because the design and aerodynamics reduce air resistance and allow for greater speeds. Popular brands of aero wheels include Mavic, Easton, Zipp, Campagnolo and Reynolds.

Disc Wheels

These are solid wheels that have no spokes, and are usually made of a lightweight carbon or composite material. Disc Wheels are very expensive and typically used by professional cyclists during time trials to distribute air flow and increase riding speed. Popular disc brands are Zipp and HED.

Tubulars

These wheels are made to hold a tubular tire, which means the tube is sewn into the tire and then the tire is actually glued onto the wheel. These are the popular choice of wheel/tire pairing for most types of riding other than basic road or leisure riding. Tubulars work well for racing due to their lighter weight and for the capacity of the tire to hold more air pressure.

Clinchers

These wheels have a lip that the tire actually “clinches” onto. They are easier to change when they flat. The drawback is that they can’t hold as much air in the tire, so there is more rolling resistance, which means slightly less speed. Clinchers are considered “low performance” and aren’t typically used for anything but leisurely road riding, although newer designs can be made race-worthy, according to Trails.com.

TIRES

Bike companies use a variety of different tires on their road models and usually, the tires are good for 1,000 to 2,000 miles, depending on your weight, riding style, and whether the tire is located on the front or back. So, the chances are pretty good that you’ll be fine riding on the tires that come stock on your new bicycle.

You might consider upgrading however, if the tires are the wrong size or design for your predominant type of riding. One important difference is bead type. Beads are found in both edges of the tire. They’re the parts that grip the rim to hold the tire on the wheel. Less-expensive tires use wire beads, which add weight (remember that rotating weight is the most important kind). Better models have Kevlar (a super-tough fabric) beads.

Tires with Kevlar beads are called “folding tires,” and they’re a great upgrade if you want lightweight wheels and lively handling. These tires cost more, so expect to pay for them. But, the additional expense is worth it if you want optimum performance.

Another reason to swap tires is to get a different width. Tire width determines how much air it holds, which in turn decides ride softness. It also affects how the bike handles, rolling resistance and durability.

Here’s how the sizes compare:

  • 700 x 20 thin, primarily for time trials and lighter riders
  • 700 x 23 normal, for most conditions, racing and training
  • 700 x 25 thicker, longer wearing, more shock absorption
  • 700 x 28 thick, long-life, ideal for touring, commuting

About 650c Wheels

Some time-trial bikes, as well as some compact, smaller models come equipped with 650c wheels, which are smaller diameter than 700s. These are a little lighter and slightly stronger, and they accelerate faster than standard 700 wheels. But, 650c wheels sometimes ride a bit rougher (smaller, lighter riders can compensate by dropping tire pressure slightly), lose momentum a bit faster and cover less distance per revolution (strong riders will require taller gearing). So, if you’re comparing bikes with both wheel sizes, be sure to test ride them to feel for yourself the differences. That’s the best way to decide.

COMPUTERS

Cars have speedometers, bikes have computers! If you want to measure your cycling performance you’re going to need a bike computer which are more advanced than the computers on the space shuttle. Today’s computers measure time, speed, distance, cadence, uphill & downhill performance, and much more.

HEART RATE MONITORS

Get the most out of your rides by monitoring your heart rate.  The most advanced cyclocomputers can measure altitude, calories, heart rate, temperature and so much more! A wide range of monitors exist to meet your needs, so stop into Sammy’s and we’ll help you find the perfect one for you.

LIGHTS

Let Sammy’s help you light up the night! Whether you’re an early morning commuter or a nighttime trail rider, chances are you’re not going to survive very long without a bike light . We have a huge selection of bike headlights and tail lights to increase your visibility and, just maybe, keep you on your bike and off the injured list. We’ve got headlights that attach to your helmet or handlebar. We also have flashing tail lights that mount on your seatpost or clip to your gear, too. When it comes to bike lighting accessories, checking out Sammy’s is a brilliant idea.

EYEWEAR

Wind, flying dirt and debris can cause itchy, irritated eyes. Cycling glasses can be worn to protect your eyes from these elements, can shield you from ultraviolet radiation and the sun, and can increase contrast to help you see pot holes, rocks, and other road conditions better. Lenses can be made to change color with the lighting conditions to accommodate the time of day and weather you ride in. They can even be fit with a prescription lens. Here is what to look for:

Ultraviolet Protection

Since cycling takes place outside, you need to make sure your eyes are protected 100% from ultraviolet radiation. UV iis often included even in clear lenses.

Frame Style

Since riding takes place at a certain speed, and since flying dirt and debris is common in this activity, the best type of frame is going to be a wrapped around style. This will shield the eyes from the wind, especially important for contact lens wearers, as wind can cause the contacts to dry. Also, a wrap around style will also better keep dirt and debris out of the eyes. To offer proper ventilation for this style, the frame must have “air holes” or channels at the top of the frame to prevent fogging. An upper sweat bar can also help control fogging. Also, a frame that has interchangeable lenses will benefit those who ride in varying light conditions. (see lens colors below)

Lens Color

Since riding make take place at different times of the day, or in various weather conditions, interchangeable lenses work the best. They allow you to swap out lenses to correspond to the lighting condition you are riding in. In bright sunlight, you can use a dark sunglass lens. A gray lens will be the darkest, but a brown or amber lens can help increase contrast so you can better read the terrain (i.e. pot holes, rocks, mud, etc.) When riding in low light or overcast days, a yellow or vermilion (rose) lens can be used to block glare in this lighting condition. At night, a clear lens can be used to shield wind and debris without compromising vision. A photochromatic lens is also designed for varying lighting conditions. This is a lens designed to change color with the amount of light outside. Thus, in bright sunlight, it will act as a true sunglass. However, in the early morning, late afternoon, or on overcast days, the lens will lighten up so that they still can be worn, but let more light through the lens so you can see.

HELMETS

WHEN WE SELL A BICYCLE, we always ask whether you have a good helmet, too. Why? Because we know that head protection is the most important safeguard when cycling. In fact, according to the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute, if they’d been wearing helmets, 90 percent of bicyclists who were seriously injured or died in accidents in recent years would have survived with treatable injuries.The thing that makes helmets so important is how high your head is above the ground when you’re riding. That’s a long way to fall and quite an impact if you strike your head. Fortunately, all our helmets offer outstanding protection. They’re even tested by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) to ensure that they’ll do their job. Here are some guidelines for choosing from the many models and styles we carry.

Features and Benefits

Apart from their life-saving potential, helmets provide other benefits. One of the most surprising bejefis their ability to cool your head. While this may seem counter intuitive, better helmets actually insulate the head from heat. They provide shade, of course. And, they’re made of polystyrene, which is similar to what coolers are made of; a foam-like material that keeps heat out. Also, modern helmets venting systems force air through providing a constant cooling breeze. Tests have shown that these features actually make a helmeted rider cooler than a bareheaded one, even on a hot day or tough climb.

Another great feature, especially for off-road riding or touring on a bike with an upright seating position, is a visor. These keep sun out of the eyes improving visibility by reducing glare and cutting down on sunburn. Plus, when you’re riding off road and the sun is low in the sky, the visor helps block rays flashing strobe-like through the trees. They’ll also knock away small branches that might hit you in the face as you ride past on narrow trails.

Modern helmets are also brightly colored, a clear signal to motorists. And because they’re on the top of your head, the highest point on your body, they make you much more visible in traffic.

Find a Fine Fit

Head and helmet shapes vary so the most important rule is to try on several models and brands to find the type that fits your head best. Start by trying on any helmet to see what size you are. Or you can measure your head just above the eyebrows with a tape measure to get an idea (small is roughly 20 to 22 inches; medium: 22 to 23.5 inches; and large: 23.25 to 24.5 inches).

Usually helmets come in at least three sizes depending on the manufacturer. You’re looking for one that offers a snug fit. Ask us for help if you have questions. We’re happy to help and we have the experience to point you toward a helmet that’s right for your head shape, riding style and budget.

Generally speaking, there are round and oval heads and helmet shapes that match. You can tell when the helmet fits right. It’ll feel snug all the way around. To test it, try moving the helmet side-to-side and front-to-back. If there’s more play side-to-side than front-to-back, you’ve probably tried on a round-shape helmet and you probably have a more oval-shaped head.

Keep in mind that all helmets come with fitting kits. These pads adhere to the inside of the helmet to customize it to your head. The helmet however, should almost fit your head before you add any fitting pads. Otherwise, you may have to put in a lot of pads to get it to fit, which will compromise the fit. In a really good fit, you may need no pads or only two pads, one on either side or end to snug the helmet a bit.

Fit doesn’t depend only on pads and helmet size. Most helmets today include retention devices, which are comprised of wide straps or plastic web-like retainers built into the back of the helmet that hold the base of your head. These are adjustable to fine-tune fit. And, when the retention device is properly set, it helps hold the helmet in place. This is a great feature when you’re riding over bumpy terrain.

Selecting Your Helmet

You can spend from $30 to $200 for a bicycle helmet today. Surprisingly, almost all quality models protect equally well. How can you tell a good one? Look for a sticker inside the helmet that says CPSC. If it has this sticker, the helmet has passed rigid testing standards. All our helmets have passed these tests.

Consider how you’ll use the helmet, too. As we mentioned, a visor is a handy feature for off-road use. You may not want it for road use, however, because if you ride with your head down, the visor can block vision a bit. Many helmets today come with removable visors though, which allow you to use the same helmet and customize it for the conditions.

As you spend more for a helmet, you don’t get more protection. What you get is more vents for increased cooling, lighter weight, which makes an energy-saving difference on long rides, and slightly more advanced strap and retention systems. Also, better helmets feature molding technology that incorporates the helmet’s hard shell into the polystyrene body. This helps keep the helmet in good condition longer through daily wear and tear.You might feel a difference worth paying for by trying on these helmets and if so, you should buy one. Usually, the more you ride, the more you’ll notice the design enhancements.

When trying on helmets, after fit, look for comfortable straps and ones that have a secure locking device (so they don’t change adjustment all the time). You want soft pads too that can’t chafe your head, an overall design that appeals to you, and a price that suits your budget. Remember: you don’t have to spend a lot. You’ll find very nice, perfectly safe helmets that look almost identical to the big-buck models in the $45 to $90 price ranges.

Other Considerations

When you get the helmet home, don’t ignore the owner’s manual. Study it. Even if we adjusted the helmet to your head, it’s important for you to understand how the helmet should fit and how to adjust it because as you wear the helmet, the straps may change adjustment.

Many people make the mistake of tipping the helmet back on the head when adjusting it because they think it’ll fell cooler that way (see the girl’s helmet in the photo). That’s a big mistake because a tipped-back helmet can’t protect your face in a crash.
The helmet must sit squarely on the head (see the policewoman’s photo) so that the front of the helmet will hit first if you go over the handlebars. The straps are what adjust the helmet so it will remain in this position naturally when you put it on. Adjusted correctly, you should be able to lightly tug on the helmet and it shouldn’t move or tip excessively. It should want to return to the proper position automatically. Also, the small strap buckles on either side should rest just beneath the ear lobes.

Instructions in the owner’s manual explain in detail how to adjust the straps for the proper helmet fit. Be sure to ask us for help if you’re not sure.

Another important thing you can find out about in the manual is the guarantee. Some makers offer replacement policies for crashed helmets. You won’t get a helmet for free but you may save some money by returning your helmet with a letter describing what happened.

Finally, helmets don’t last forever. Manufacturers recommend getting a new helmet at least every 5 years. This is important for your protection in a crash. Helmet materials break down slightly over the years and helmets just naturally take a beating in use as you toss them in the truck, drop them and ride.

SHOES

Beginning cyclists don’t need a clipless pedal system, and special cycling shoes. However, as you begin to ride longer distances, more frequently, most cyclists will begin to appreciate the added efficiency clipless pedal systems will provide.

Almost all clipless pedal systems work the same. There is a cleat attached to the sole of your bike shoe that fits onto, or into, a part of the pedal on your bike. To snap the shoe cleat into the pedal, the cyclist applies downward pressure. To release the shoe, the cyclist twists their heel outwards.

Understanding how the clipless pedal system works will provide a better understanding of what to look for in a cycling specific shoe.

Remember: You need to buy cycling shoes that are compatible with the pedal system that you purchase.

It’s Best to Buy a System

If you’re just getting going, the way to go is purchasing a pedal and shoe system; in other words shoes and pedals that are made for each other. To be sure you get such a system, you must make sure the shoes you purchase are compatible with the pedals you select. If you buy pedals and shoes from the same manufacturer, the system will work nicely. However, you may want a different shoe because it fits better. Just be sure that the shoe you pick is compatible with the pedal system you use. Most quality shoes work fine with the major pedal systems but once in a while there are mismatches and you want to avoid those. We’re experts on this, so don’t hesitate to ask.

When shoe shopping, don’t underestimate the importance of trying them on. Some brands run wider than others. Some sole shapes may fit your feet better than others. Some brands run big and some run small. No matter how much you like the look or features of a shoe, a lousy fit can ruin rides. So, it’s always best to come in and try some on.

Road Biking Shoes

Road biking shoes are designed for speed. In general they have a very narrow profile designed to hold the foot, especially the heel, in place. Road bike shoes are lightweight, areodynamic, and have extremely stiff soles.

Almost all shoes designed for road biking have an exposed cleat system. This is so the entire sole of the shoe can be made from a very stiff material, such as carbon. The stiffer the sole of your shoe, the more stable the platform to transmit power. The downside of having a very stiff sole, and exposed cleat is that it is very difficult to walk in these type of cycling shoes. Some companies are now adding a rubber heal tip to the shoe, and offering rubber cleat covers that can be put over your cleats for those times that you need to get off your bike and walk.

Mountain Biking Shoes

Mountain biking shoes have recessed cleats, and a slightly more flexible rubber sole designed to let the cyclist walk when needed. The rubber soles have large tread patterns that make walking on steep, muddy, or otherwise unrideable terrain much easier. When purchasing mountain bike shoes and a compatible clipless pedal system always consider how mud and debris are cleared from the shoes and cleats during clip in.

Touring Shoes

Bicycle touring is all about taking a trip on your bike. That means that you need to be able to carry all the stuff you intend to bring with you, on your bike. The amount of gear that you can carry is limited. As such, most touring cyclist carry gear that is multi-functional. Touring cyclists ride a lot of miles on their bikes each day, and will benefit from the performance of a clipless pedal system. However, they also need to be able to walk comfortably when they are not cycling, and have a pair of shoes that doen’t necessarily look like a cycling specific shoe. The choice is to carry several pairs of shoes, or to find a cycling specific shoe that looks like a normal street shoe, but is also comfortable to walk in. Shoes designed for touring should have recessed cleats, and a more flexible rubber sole so that the cyclist can be as comfortable walking while off the bike, as they are efficient when riding the bike. There is an amazing selection of shoe options available to the touring cyclist. From tennis shoes, to hiking boots and even sandles- all designed for style, comfort, and performance both on the bike and off.

MULTITOOLS

Be ready to change that flat, if you plan on taking up cycling because the average cyclist has one once a year. You’ll need a spare tube, CO2 canister or pump and tire tools. The average cyclist can change a tire in under 20 minutes, while the hardened road warrior can do it in as little as 5 minutes. In any case, you’ll be confident to ride long distances knowing you can fix your wheels.

Face it, after a long season of riding parts do manage to wiggle loose. Toss a multi-tool in your saddle back, load up a spare tube and you’re ready for anything from a long Saturday afternoon ride or triathlon. They have a full set of hexes and drivers to adjust and repair almost any part of your bike while on the road. Off course, you’ll need to have basic knowledge of bike repair, but Sammy’s Bikes will teach you how to repair your bike on the road.

BAGS//RACKS//BASKETS

Freedom to Travel

Whether you use your bike to commute, run errands or take longer trips, you’ll want to carry more than just a tube-repair kit. A daypack or messenger bag is good, but some of your best gear-carrying options are baskets or bags that fit on your bike.

Rear and Front Racks

A rack provides a stable framework to hold gear on your bicycle. In good weather, items can be strapped directly to the rack without a cover. For weather protection or the ability to hold loose items together, rack trunks and panniers can be easily attached to the rear rack. This provides you with a secure and balanced way to carry your gear in all conditions.

Baskets

Baskets can carry loads on the front and/or back of your bicycle. Rear baskets are usually mounted on either side of the rear wheel. They can carry tall loads, as they have no lid.

Seat Bag

Also called a saddle pack, saddle bag or underseat bag, this fits under your bicycle seat and usually attaches to the rails of the saddle itself. Most hold small items like a multi-tool, spare tube, tire levers, a patch kit or an energy bar. Larger models can carry a few extra items. Keep this mounted to your bike to ensure you never leave home without the essentials.
Handlebar Bag

Rack Trunk

This stable bag mounts on top of your rear rack using either straps or a tack system. Rack trunks are smaller than panniers but larger than seat bags, making them a happy medium for some or a simple way for others to add capacity. Many have plastic sheets to reinforce the base area and retain the shape of the bag. Packing is simplified by some sort of pocket system or divided storage. Some trunks even offer integrated rain covers.

Be ready to change that flat, if you plan on taking up cycling because the average cyclist has one once a year. You’ll need a spare tube, CO2 canister or pump and tire tools. The average cyclist can change a tire in under 20 minutes, while the hardened road warrior can do it in as little as 5 minutes. In any case, you’ll be confident to ride long distances knowing you can fix your wheels.

Face it, after a long season of riding parts do manage to wiggle loose. Toss a multi-tool in your saddle back, load up a spare tube and you’re ready for anything from a long Saturday afternoon ride or triathlon. They have a full set of hexes and drivers to adjust and repair almost any part of your bike while on the road. Off course, you’ll need to have basic knowledge of bike repair, but Sammy’s Bikes will teach you how to repair your bike on the road.

CHILD CHARIOTS

Running & Cycling Chariots In Stock!

There are very few companies in the world who solely dedicate themselves to the outdoor transportation of children. Thule is one of them, and has been specializing in this field for twenty years.

Thule’s purpose is to provide the highest quality child carrier product on the market with safety and innovation being our ultimate focus.

Guided by principles such as family togetherness, outdoor activities, health and fitness, balanced lifestyles, environmental sustainability, corporate responsibility, and an ongoing commitment to transforming your family outings into unforgettable memories.

Chariot is a part of the Thule Group and through intense focus and determination, has earned the distinction of being the market leader in North America and many European countries.

Parents around the world have been choosing our carriers, citing the quality and innovation of our products, and applauding our attention to detail and customer care.

BIKE CARRIERS

If you love to travel and explore new areas, you’ll want to invest in a bike rack. It’s the best way to enjoy a little vacation and your favority passtime.

It’s also a great way to get into the city, or to your favorite charity / group ride.

Roof-Mounted Bike Racks

Key Features/Details:

  • Provides the best protection of any type of rack against damage to the finish of bike frame
  • The best way to carry tandem and recumbent bikes
  • Keeps bikes up and out of the way
  • Makes parallel parking with rack attached easy as opposed to a rear-mount rack
  • Requires a crossbar system on roof of vehicle
  • Bikes must be hoisted to car roof. A small step stool, ladder, or one of our Wheel Steps (see Accessories) will help you reach a high vehicle roof.
  • Requires care when traveling under low-clearance bridges and in parking garages
  • Roof-mounted bikes create wind resistance.

Rear-Mounted Bike Racks

Key Features / Details:

  • Mount Types: Trunk, Hitch, Spare-Tire
  • Most popular location for carrying bikes
  • Modest price, wide selection available
  • You may wish to take precautions to protect bikes from rubbing against each other during transit.
  • Caution must be used when parking the vehicle to account for the extra rear length.